As the temperatures in Portland moved from the low- to mid-70s of the morning and afternoon to the low-80s of the late afternoon, we sought relief at the
Lan Su Chinese Garden in Portland's Chinatown. (And this garden provided such relief. It felt a few degrees cooler than the sidewalks and streets outside its perimeter.) We really just kind of stumbled upon it last minute, so we didn't know what to anticipate. We could see that it was contained within one square block, so my expectations were low.
This garden was radically different in architecture, atmosphere, and tone from the
Japanese gardens. Where the Japanese gardens were subtle and understated, this Chinese garden was ornate and overstated. Buildings and structures of the residence of a Ming-era Confucian scholar, his family, and attendants surrounded a small lake at their center. Like the daimyo who would have owned the property at the Japanese garden, this Confucian scholar would have been part of the governing elite of his society.
Stone, water, and plants were the foundations for this garden, just as they were for the Japanese gardens, but the structures really added an element of their own. Wooden posts and pillars, gates and doors and panels, curved stone tile roofs all lent themselves to making this one square block a world of its own. The rest of the city, pressing in all around the garden, "disappeared" in many ways. The noise diminished and unless one looked up and saw the surrounding skyscrapers, one could imaging one's self in 16th century China.
I was fascinated by the way that this garden was claimed and tamed by the human, in a way that felt more overt than the Japanese garden. Chinese
hanzi characters spoke from stones, panels, pillars, and carved wooden signs hanging over entryways. Language helped to "speak" form to this space (and time). Stones were large and bold. Shapes and structure were built into paved stone walkways, windows in walls, and ornamental tiles. It was fascinating and a time to see how Confucianism and Taoism played into the architecture of the garden and buildings of this Chinese garden in the same way the Shintoism, Buddhism, and Taoism sculpted the gardens layouts of the Japanese garden.
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Both gardens provided me with plenty of things to continue to mull over and reflect upon, even as I leave the physical spaces behind in Portland.