Monday, April 21, 2008

on THE TAPHANDLE

Sapporo Premium Draft, a Pale Lager by Sapporo Breweries

12 ounce bottle.

What is the aesthetic import of "ethnic" cuisine upon the enjoyment of a particular beer? Do the background, country of origin, or lineage of the beer affect the food?

The excitation of senses—visual, nasal, and palatal—is influenced by the atmosphere and environment of Happy Teriyaki #11, as well as the Japanese associations of the restaurant, whether known or not, conscious or subconscious, wrong or right. What would be mediocre or banal in other circumstances, is here transformed, albeit minimally.

The slight spiciness of Sapporo is brought forth by teriyaki and tonkatsu. It is this minor hint of flavor that saves Sapporo, at least in this instance, from being just another run-of-the-mill pale lager. It is not spectacular, by any means, but it will suffice. And, it makes the meal complete.

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