on THE TAPHANDLE

Redhook Long Hammer IPA, an India Pale Ale by Redhook Brewery

This is an ale that squanders its promise. On the pour, it appears as though a glass of apple juice, with a thin white head that quickly dissipates. The aroma is complex and enticing. The main scents are citrus, floral, and toffee, with a light yeastiness and a hint of freshly-cut Granny Smith apple as nice surprises.

The aroma was very promising, setting expectations high. The flavor and palate do not follow, however. The palate is weak, and there is something missing in the flavor. First, it doesn't match the aroma. Second, the main flavor is a weird citrus combination—a cross between orange and grapefruit—but rather subdued. The other flavor is a slight alcohol edge that should not be present. Overall, the flavor that is present is mostly lacking, and very one-dimensional.

I had this with dinner two consecutive nights in a row, to ensure that I did not come across a bad bottle. The first night was king salmon with puff pastry. The second night was chicken piccata, which should be able to handle most bad beers. Long Hammer IPA was slightly better with the chicken piccata, but the difference was not enough to change my initial reaction. It is too bad that Red Hook couldn't brew this IPA to be as interesting as the design of its label and bottle.